Mexico, Puerto Vallarta

“Bliss-inducing beaches. Sultry nightlife. And a jungly mountain backdrop. Puerto Vallarta is a blockbuster holiday waiting to happen.”

Gazing out over Banderas Bay on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, Puerto Vallarta’s a holiday resort and a half. It’s got more golden sands than a sun-worshipper could lust after. More party spirit than a night owl could dream up. And enough jungle scenery to inspire endless Hollywood adventure movies. In fact, it owes its original fame to a film. In 1964, director John Huston filmed ‘The Night of the Iguana’ here. During filming, leading man, Richard Burton, enjoyed a steamy affair with Elizabeth Taylor and built his ‘n’ hers villas in the town’s backstreets. Back then Puerto Vallarta was little more than a sleepy fishing village. Now, though, lots has changed. There’s still the old quarter, a chunk of old-world Mexican charm hugging the Cuale River. Threaded with cobbled streets and terracotta-tiled cottages, it’s perfect for pottering and shopping. But that’s only half the story. Right along the Bay, Puerto Vallarta spreads out a blanket of modern holiday wares. Luxury hotels. The action-packed Malecón waterfront. And the jet-set Marina Vallarta, crammed with sleek white yachts. All side-by-side with velvety sands lapped by blue-green seas. Sun-worshippers love it here. And scuba divers and snorkellers do too - drawn by the coral reefs, manta rays and turtles. And foodies adore it as well. Brimming with cosmopolitan restaurants, it’s gastronomic heaven. And when it comes to nightlife, Puerto Vallarta’s earth-moving stuff. From the moment the spectacular west coast sunsets send fireworks over the Bay, this resort lives it up. We’re talking ‘mariachi’-fuelled Mexican fiestas, romantic ocean cruises, conga-filled bars and stellar nightclubs. And when you fancy getting back to nature, just look around. Cue the lush mountains of the Sierra Madre, cloaked in thick jungles. And tropical beach villages where ‘palapa’ huts peep over emerald-watered coves. All drenched in 322 days of sunshine a year. Exotic. Enchanting. And truly spectacular. Puerto Vallarta is all this and then some.

Weather

Puerto Vallarta’s weather is great almost all year. The sun’s pretty much a permanent fixture and annual temperatures usually clock in at a fantastic 25°C. Come summertime, things get even steamier. With temperatures hitting 32°C, the months between July and October are hotter than a bowl of chilli. However, the humidity’s quite high and rainstorms are frequent – although they clear away quickly. But if you prefer things cooler and drier, come between November and May, when the temperatures hug a 20 to 25° C and blue skies rule the day.

Beaches

Puerto Vallarta rolls out no end of spectacular beaches. We’re talking golden sands so fine they feel like satin underfoot. And Pacific seas whose colours change from turquoise to jade to sapphire. There’s every kind of beach, too. Lively town numbers where the vibe’s more daytime partying than day-dreamy dozy. Solid gold sun-worshipping territories. And trance-inducing tropical bays. For the liveliest atmosphere, hotfoot it to the main town beach – Playa Los Muertos. It’s hip, happening and hot, all day long. Think rows of professional tanners sunning their limbs. Energetic volleyball games and parked-up jetskis. And trendy ‘palapa’ eateries just begging you to break up your bronzing bouts with long seafood lunches. And the beaches of the Hotel Zone are just as seductive. Here, broad sweeps of sands keep hotel guests happy from early morning to late afternoon with their pulsating watersports and blissfully warm waters. Just pop on your sun lotion, flop on your lounger and drop off to the lapping waves. And if you need a wake-up call, let the watersports oblige. Float through the air under a billowing parasail. Take off on water-skis. Or grab a snorkelling pleasure boat from Marina Vallarta. But don’t think that’s it. The 100 mile-long shores of Banderas Bay are littered with other beaches. Windsurfers will love the Punta Mita peninsula, where white-tipped rollers create great surf breaks. Meanwhile, peace-lovers will fall for the Bay’s southern shores. Here, a string of eye-candy coves nestle into steamy jungle backdrops. Catch a ‘panga’ boat to Yelapa to chill out in its peaceful paradise. Or hop on a bus to Mismaloya – a magical sheltered cove where many scenes from ‘Night of the Iguana’ and ‘Predator’ were filmed. It’s outrageously beautiful. And for the ultimate Robinson Crusoe idyll, take a boat to the Las Marietas Islands. These rocky islets don’t just offer spectacular snorkelling and diving. They’re gilded by quiet beaches perfect for hiding away from the rest of the world.

Food & Drink

Puerto Vallarta’s got a 250-strong list of restaurants that’ll get every gastronome gushing with delight. And we’re not just talking temples to Mexican gastronomy. The town is like a world convention of international cuisine, with eateries inspired by the furthest-flung corners of the globe. We’re talking Spanish, Thai, French, Chinese, American, Asian and Italian. And a whole lot more. For the widest choice, hightail it to Basilio Badillio. This downtown street isn’t nicknamed ‘restaurant row’ for nothing. Another hotspot is along Playa Los Muertos beach. Here, lots of the resort’s long-standing legends perch above the sands. Grab a chair and dig in on their modern Mexican and fresh seafood creations while wowing at a Pacific sunset. And hunger pangs don’t get a look in at the Hotel Zone or Marina Vallarta, either. The hotels and restaurants here offer some of Puerto Vallarta’s finest foodie haunts. And for really earthy Mexican cooking, take a turn out of town. The surrounding forests are peppered with restaurants where you can savour traditional Mexican treats. Tuck into crumbly ‘tacos’ stuffed with chilli-infused meats and cheese. Mouth-watering ‘chilli con carne’. And spicy ‘fajitas’ – soft tortillas filled with fiery fried meat, onions, peppers and chillies. All along with fish plucked straight from the sea. Think barbecued red snapper, tuna and grouper. And lobster, shrimp and shellfish drenched in coconut sauce or turned into chunky soups. The drinks are amazing, too. Beat the heat with an icy-cold ‘Sol’ topped with a zesty lime wedge. See out sundown over a sublime, salt-rimmed ‘margarita’. Or if you’re feeling parched, reach for tropical fresh fruit juices made with freshly squeezed papaya, mango and pineapple. And don’t even think about leaving without downing some tequila. The heady national drink comes in a bewildering array of varieties. Mixed in cocktails or served in shots, it’s a definite Mexican must-try.

• Trio, Puerto Vallarta Polished marble floors greet you at this swish international eaterie. Feast on delights like Lebanese goat’s cheese salad and roasted red snapper in lime sauce.
• La Palapa, Puerto Vallarta This local legend is unutterably romantic. Coo over the slap-up seafood whilst ogling the sunset or go for lunch, when the waiters serve you on Playa Los Muertos’ sands.
• Cenaduria Flor Morena, Puerto Vallarta Fill up with hearty ‘enchiladas’ and crisp ‘tacos’ at this chirpy Mexican diner facing Vallarta’s main square. It’s super-cheap, so your wallet’s onto a good thing, too.
• Argentino Los Pibes, Puerto Vallarta Juicy steaks. Garlic shrimps. And oodles of noodles. The varied menu at this semi-posh haven will keep everyone happy.
• Daiquiri Dick’s, Puerto Vallarta Tourists flock to this Californian-Mexican beachfront restaurant for its luscious lobster tacos and grilled fish on a stick. Watch the waves rolling below or come at sundown, when the views are at their best.

Shopping

Puerto Vallarta’s got several malls crowded with fashion chains, boutiques and souvenir emporia. And one big department store. But surprisingly for such a tourist-minded town, the shopping here’s more rustic and earthy than ritzy and exclusive. The town centre sums it up. While the main malls can all be found in Marina Vallarta and the Hotel Zone, downtown Puerto Vallarta comes up trumps for one-off treasures and trinkets. First place to head are the streets behind the Malecón – they’re laced with dinky gift shops, chi-chi boutiques and galleries. And all along the Malecón, street vendors peddle Mexico’s silver jewellery, handicrafts, T-shirts and painted shot glasses. But the best shopping comes from the markets around the Rio Cuale. Just think Mexican shabby-chic and you’ve got the picture. Start at the Municipal market. This two-storey emporium creaks under rainbow-striped blankets, hand-blown glass, woodcarvings and papier-mache parrots – all favourite take-homes. And once you’re done here, saunter across the river to the flea market. Yet another explosion of colourful knick-knack stalls, it’s got more Mexican shirts, leather goods, earthenware pottery and jewellery than any shopper could bargain for. Talking of which, make sure you barter. If you don’t, you could easily end up paying over the odds. Wherever you are though, there’s plenty to catch your eye souvenir-wise all around town. Most popular are classic Mexican goodies like psychedelic paintings, terracotta dishes and decorative rings and bracelets made from local silver. Then there’s Huichol Indian art. The Aztec-descended Huichol still live in the high Sierra Madre. Check out their yarn ‘paintings’. These symbolic, braided pictures are inspired by the visions they have during ceremonial rituals, many of them induced by ‘peyote’, a hallucinogenic cactus plant. Or there’s Huichol beadwork – wooden carvings intricately laid with beads depicting jungle animals.

Nightlife

Puerto Vallarta comes into own come sundown. Lively as it is during the day, its charms seem to double as darkness takes hold. Its location on Mexico’s west coast has lots to do with it. The sunsets here are so sensational, they’re like a siren call for everyone to hit the beachside bars and sink a few cocktails whilst soaking up the red-and-orange explosions over the sea. From then on, the full rhythm of night swings into action. As the last fading sunbeams turn the sky mauve and orange, Aztec-costumed dancers, body-painted acrobats and animated musicians emerge from nowhere, showing off their skills along the Malecón to strolling crowds. Flickering lanterns light up on romantic restaurant patios hung with bougainvillea. And the smoke-tinged aromas of barbecuing fish and seafood mingle with the first trumpet licks of ‘mariachi’ music, beckoning you into a myriad of eating spots. But don’t think everything’s about wining and dining. Puerto Vallarta has a hundred and one ways to enjoy the evening. Board a catamaran to gaze at the shimmering resort lights from deck. Clink your ‘margarita’ glasses in a cosy bar serenaded by smoochy salsa. Or dive into a rip-roaring Mexican fiesta, where sombrero-hatted ‘mariachis’ and folklore dancers whip up a frenzy of foot-tapping fun that’ll have you singing in the shower come morning. And if you’re up for wilder shenanigans, this town’s right on your wavelength. As midnight approaches, two hotspots beckon dedicated night owls. Cross the Rio Cuale to the South Side – it’s crammed with cool watering holes, intimate clubs and funky gay bars. Or for serious grooving, hotfoot it to the Malecón. Right along this hedonistic strip, cutting-edge dance clubs, drinking dens and restaurants draw excited young revellers. Burn a hole in the floor to head-splitting techno, acid jazz or classic pop. Shake your booty to live salsa, Latino beats or American rock. Or hit a fun-packed pub to conga and carouse ‘tl the wee hours.

• Zoo, Puerto Vallarta You can’t miss this nightspot slap on the Malecón – it’s got a giraffe on its roof. Shimmy to Top 40 hits, boogie in the dance cage and party like an animal.
• Rhythms of the Night Cruise, Puerto Vallarta This is a tropical treat. First, a catamaran glides you to an idyllic nearby cove. Second, you dine by torchlight on the sands with the palms whispering overhead. Then you’re entertained by tribal dancers, bare-chested drummers and costumed performers enacting hypnotic pre-Columbian rituals. Unforgettable.
• De Santos, Puerto Vallarta This über-cool club boasts a techno-powered dancefloor and a rooftop bar where guests swig on cocktails whilst lapping up chill-out tunes.
• Senor Frog’s, Puerto Vallarta A free-for-all atmosphere reigns at this sawdust-floored bar, which packs with youthful crowds every night. Weekly foam parties add to the fun.
• Mariachi Loco, Puerto Vallarta This is the Mexican full monty. A restaurant-show-bar, it’s a whirl of infectious ‘mariachi’ bands, Mexican dishes and ranchero classics. Tap your feet, tuck in and sing along.

Date For the Diary

Mexico’s National Day on the 15th of September sparks a carnival mood everywhere and Puerto Vallarta isn’t one to miss out on the party. Its streets fill with revellers, folklore dancers and ‘mariachi’ troupes and everyone gets caught up in the fun. In the last two weeks of May every year, the town’s Cultural Festival brings a host of rock concerts, street parades and artistic performances, and ends with an exhilarating fireworks display. And sailing enthusiasts won’t want to miss the annual Banderas Bay Festival, which sees colourful dinghy and sailboat races ply the waves partnered by live music events and food tents along the waterfront.

Top 10 Experiences

Old Vallarta
No trip here would be complete without exploring Vallarta’s historic old town. It’s still totally and tropically Mexican. Meander around its cobblestoned streets foraging in its gift shops and markets. Tour the pretty Church of Guadalupe, topped with a crown modelled on Empress Carlota of Mexico’s glittering coronet. Then head for the Rio Cuale Museum to view its fascinating pre-Columbian relics. And finally, pay homage to the love story that made Vallarta famous. Tucked into the side streets is the ‘Love Bridge’ that Richard Burton built to link his and Elizabeth Taylor’s villas. All pink-painted balustrades, it’s a kitschy 1960s shrine to their madly passionate affair.

Yelapa & Boca de Tomatlán
Fancy escaping for a day? These villages will do the trick. Boca de Tomatlán occupies a bougainvillea-festooned bay and looks like it’s dropped straight from paradise. When you’re done chilling on its sands, sip a margarita and pinch yourself you haven’t died and gone to heaven. Even more poetically beautiful is Yelapa – a simple hamlet tucked into another exquisite cove. All thatched ‘palapa’ huts and soft sands, it’s even got its very own moonshine – a head-numbing brew called ‘raicilla’.

Wildlife
Mexico’s Pacific coastline and tropical jungles teem with wildlife and birds, so it’d be a crime not to go looking for them. Take a boat ride along the Tovara River to spot crocodiles and birds like storm petrels and colourful jays. Take a boat trip to the Las Marietas Islands to spy on blue-footed boobies, pelicans and terns. Or join a jeep or horseback safari along the jungly trails of the Sierra Madre, watching for scarlet-red Amazonian parrots, green iguanas and armour-plated armadillos on your way. David Attenborough eat your heart out.

Watersports
Scuba divers and snorkellers will fall head over fins for the translucent waters of Banderas Bay. Wriggle into your wetsuit or pop on a snorkel and join a boat excursion – they’re the best way to experience the breath-stopping marine life. Hotspots include the Los Arcos rocks and Marietas Island Marine Reserve where you can swoop around coral reefs and dramatic drop-offs swarming with exotic fish, rays and turtles. Alternatively, go snorkelling around the neighbouring coves, wafting through the waters in the company of butterfly fish, angelfish and iridescent seahorses.

Canopy Tours
This is one big endorphin rush for gung-ho outdoor types. The jungle-clad Sierra Madre slopes provide the setting for these pulse-racing canopy tours, where you whiz down zip-lines high above the jungle floor. Strap in and whoosh from tree platform to tree platform, soaking up the bird’s eye views of the fairytale forest and serenaded by the calls of exotic birds.

Big Game Fishing
Sports fishing is big in Vallarta all year round. So if you’re eager to tackle some gigantic fish, you’ll love it here. Charter a boat and you’ll soon be waiting for that unsuspecting sailfish, tuna or blue marlin to bite.

Whale Watching
Every year from December to March, the warm waters of Banderas Bay attract colonies of colossal humpback whales, which come here to breed. Take a whale-watching boat trip and if Mother Nature’s smiling down on you, you’ll get to marvel at these majestic creatures as they turn tail, fly into the air and sing their hauntingly beautiful songs. Once-in-a-lifetime stuff.

Golf
Polish those putters. Warm up those irons. And smooth up that swing. Puerto Vallarta’s got more than enough world-class courses to tempt golfers off their sunbeds. Made up of greens and fairways set against jungle and mountain backdrops, they’re so beautiful, it’s hard keeping your eye on the ball. For the most breathtaking scenery, make a beeline for the Jack Nicklaus-designed Punta Mita. This course winds through ever-changing Pacific Ocean views and includes a hole located on its very own rocky island.

Dolphins
Kiss a dolphin. Take a fin ride. Or go for a full-on swim with these gentle marine mammals. They’re just some of the experiences waiting at Vallarta’s Dolphin Adventure Center, which has a family of playful Pacific bottlenose dolphins. There’s a range of encounters to choose from, including kids’ programmes and the ultimate experience – a session feeding, fin-riding and frolicking with the dolphins in a seawater lagoon. And why it leave it there? The same Center offers encounters with sea lions, too.

Splash Parque Acuatico
If you’ve got the kids in tow, they’ll adore this waterpark. A maze of white-knuckle chutes, lazy rivers and tube rides, it’s got enough attractions to keep everyone’s heads spinning all day. And talking of spinning, don’t miss the amazing ‘Torbellino’. This giant, bowl-shaped body-coaster rotates you at breakneck speed before chucking you into a pool below.

Just So You Know

Puerto Vallarta’s shops tend to stay open all day long, opening early and not closing up till around 8-10pm. And when it comes to tipping in restaurants, you’re expected to leave anything between 10-15% - the staff here really depend on tips to make up their wages.