Jamaica

“Snow-white sands. Nodding palms. Turquoise seas. All mixed with seductive reggae, rum and fun. For a chilled out tropical holiday, Jamaica’s got the recipe just right.”

The lilting, let-your-worries-go beats of reggae. Coconut-white beaches lapped by luminous blue waters. And blazing rays of sunshine peeping through palm fronds. Jamaica does tropical like no other. For starters, it’s got beaches down to a T. Especially along its north and west coasts. Here, you’ll find white bays fringed by palms begging you to flop, drop and do nothing but bronze your body. The waters are sublime, too. Bath-warm and brilliantly turquoise, they’re home to coral reefs and exotic sea life. As for the lifestyle – it’s deeply relaxing. The island radiates ‘irie’ – the Jamaican phrase for ‘life’s great’. You’ll hear it and feel it everywhere you go. It sums up the infectious chilled-out vibe that underpins life here. And it goes hand with the ever-smiling people and mesmerising reggae rhythms that drift from almost every street corner and beach bar. Paradise shores and Bob Marley grooves aside, there’s the modern side of Jamaica to think about, too. Luxury resort hotels dot the sands. And in Montego Bay, Negril and Ochos Rios, shops, bars, nightclubs and beach grills provide endless fun just inches from the sands. When it comes to days out, Jamaica’s got lots to offer, too. Bustling Kingston with its colonial mansions, quirky museums and botanical gardens. Vibrant markets where smiley, dreadlocked vendors peddle the signature red-green-and-gold trinkets of the island’s Rastafarian culture. And inland, magical waterfalls and banana plantations sweeping up to the sultry Blue Mountains.

Weather

Jamaica’s hot to trot for sun-worshippers. The island basks in year-round sunshine with temperatures never straying far from a gorgeously warm 25° to 28°C. So whenever you come, it’s pretty much a case of cossies, sun-cream and shades. If there’s a rainy season, then August through to November is the wettest time.

Beaches

Remember THAT scene from James Bond? The one where Ursula Andress waded sexily from sea? Well, it was filmed here. Well it stands to reason - the only beach that could share the screen equally with such beauty had to lie in the Caribbean. And tropical beaches are what Jamaica does best. There are creamy-white sands that seem to stretch forever. Nodding coconut palms tickling rush-roofed beach bars. And the brightest blue seas you’ve ever seen. Some of the finest sweeps come courtesy of Montego Bay. This world-renowned resort owes its fame to its bliss-inducing sands and translucent blue waters. At lively Doctor’s Bay, sands dissolve into aquamarine waters against a paradise panorama of palms, open-air restaurants and green mountains. And if we’re talking beauty contests, Walter Fletcher beach gives its neighbour a run for its money with its sweeping arc of white. To the west, Negril offers up more of the same. As well as Bloody Bay, Seven Mile Beach is seriously beautiful. And ridiculously long. Cue the sands as soft as talc, turquoise shallows as warm as a hot tub and palms rustling up perfect pools of shade for sipping those rum punches. It’s good for snorkellers, too. Just head for the West End. Here, chunky rocks drop into lime-green waters choc-full of fish. Talking of snorkelling, flipper fiends will love Ochos Rios. All along the coast here, the waters hide a spectacular coral reef bursting with sea life. And if you’re more of a landlubber, Ochos Rios’ beaches won’t disappoint. From the sexily named James Bond beach to main Turtle Beach, it’s one sun-bleached sliver after another. And let’s not forget Falmouth. Quieter than the bigger resort numbers, the beaches here are to die for - all Bounty-like sands and ultramarine waters mingling with shady palm groves.

Food and Drink

As you’d expect, fish and seafood take centre stage in Jamaica. It’s served everywhere, from casual beach bars and roadside stalls to the luxury hotels. Expect ultra-fresh slabs tuna and snapper drawn the same day. Lip-smacking lobster, conch and shrimp served with pasta, rice‘n’peas or spindly chips. For a taste of traditional Jamaica, don’t miss ‘ackee and saltfish’. This hearty combo of salted cod and ‘ackee’ - a yam-like vegetable – is a breakfast and lunchtime staple. Another must-try is ‘jerk’ chicken or pork. The meat cuts are marinated in peppery ‘jerk’ sauce before being slow-cooked until they’re unbelievably tender. Give Jamaica’s hot sauce a whirl – it’s on every table. Made to a secret recipe, this tastebud-terrorising garnish contains super-hot ‘Scotch bonnet’ chillies, so approach it with caution. There’s plenty to please pudding-wise, too. Cue succulently fresh papayas, coconuts and pineapples. And sweet bananas served as deliciously light fritters or delectable rum-drenched flambees. On the drinks front, it’d be a crime not to chill out over a refreshing ‘Red Stripe’ beer or two. Or for that matter, Jamaica’s nectar-like rum. The most popular is ‘Appleton’s’ white rum, which is mixed with everything from fresh juices to coconut milk. Oh, and don’t forget Blue Mountain coffee. Cultivated in the misty Blue Mountains, this wonderfully mild brew is said to be the world’s best. Finally, if you fancy feasting on familiar foods, don’t fret. All the resort hotels serve toned-down Jamaican dishes and international cuisine. The same goes for the resorts themselves. Negril, Montego Bay and Ochos Rios all offer up steak houses, pasta restaurants and fast-food joints – so you can always fill up with the foods you love best.

Rick’s Café, Negril
This legendary clifftop venue is a whirl of wicker chairs, rum punches and Caribbean-American nosh. Come in the afternoons for the sideshow – daring locals jumping from the rocks into the turquoise waters below.

Evita’s, Ochos Rios
Fancy ‘lasagne rastafari’? Or ‘reggae-toni’? They’re two of the Italian-Jamaican specials offered up at this celeb-favoured eaterie.

Marguerite’s, Montego Bay
Smart dress is in order at this waterfront fine dining spot. Serving classic Jamaican cuisine, it’s great for high-class versions of ‘ackee and saltfish’.

Kuyaba, Negril
Sumptuous coconut curries. Super-fresh snapper drenched in orange sauce. And sublime banana flambees. The delights come thick and fast at this jungle-beach restaurant.

Glistening Waters Inn, Falmouth
Tuck into traditional Jamaican cooking at this pretty wooden inn beside Falmouth’s ‘Luminous Lagoon’. Then take a boat trip to wow over the phosphorescent blue waters.

Shopping

Colourful stalls. Ritzy malls. And everything inbetween. Jamaica’s got a mind-boggling retail repertoire that’ll keep any shopper going for days. In the main resorts, you’ll find innumerable shops and markets clamouring for your ‘jays’ - Jamaican dollars. In Montego Bay, the downtown area is the hub of activity. If you’re after duty-free bargains, Gloucester Street is the place, while the surrounding roads brim with art galleries and wooden cabins touting brilliantly coloured sarongs, knick-knacks and bright, red-gold-and-green Rasta T-shirts. For something more upmarket, Montego Bay’s malls take the honours. You’ll find several, including the plush Bay West with its galaxy of artsy-craftsy shops and duty-free outlets. Negril’s got plenty to tempt, too. Its Norman Manley Boulevard is stacked with tourist shops, whilst Seven Mile Beach is fringed with stalls selling local artwork and trinkets. And Ochos Rios is virtually a shopping mall in itself. As a cruise stop-off point, it’s got a tide of duty-free stores, glamorous jewellers and modern arcades. But make sure you discover its rustic side. Behind Turtle Beach, colourful open-air markets set out their wares, letting you see the real Jamaica in full flow. But don’t think the island’s shopping is all about the resorts. The interior is a tropical treasure chest brimming with rum factories, potteries and coffee plantations where you can watch goods being made before snapping them up. And in most places, the shops come to you in the shape of street traders. Flashing wide, sunny grins and all manner of bric-a-brac, these friendly vendors practically beg you to haggle down their prices. Oh, and if you’re wondering what to buy, the island’s Blue Mountain coffee is a winner and sold everywhere. Duty-free electronics, perfumes and jewellery are all easy to come by, too. Wherever you go though, expect to see endless rich wooden Rasta face masks, hand-made rush baskets and psychedelically hued paintings, all cheek-to-jowl with cool, batik beachwear. And if there’s one perfect take-home, it’s Jamaican rum – the drink of choice of the island’s 18th century pirates. Top of the list is Appleton’s, but there are plenty of other varieties available at great prices. And if you’re buying duty-free, you’re entitled to a private ‘yo,ho, ho’ at how many pieces of eight you’ve saved.

Nightlife

You’re in for a treat when it comes to nightlife. Whether you’re out for a laid-back reggae beach party, strobe-lit dance-fest or romantic sunset dinner, Jamaica’s right on your wavelength. The focus of entertainment though is most definitely the resort hotels. Staying in one almost guarantees you a theme show, disco or live music every night, so it’s easy to stay put. At some point though, you’re bound to be tempted out to sample the local nightlife. And Montego Bay’s the liveliest spot by a mile. Head for the Hip Strip and bop the night away to pulsating reggae, calypso or chart hits. Negril’s no wallflower either. Norman Manley Boulevard is the epicentre. Here, party bars and hip waterholes coax you in with happy hours, sports screens and the irresistible strains of ska and reggaeton. But before you jump in, start out at the clifftop bars of the West End. Pull up a chair on the coral rocks above the azure waters and you’ll have a ringside seat for a show-stopping sunset. In Ochos Rios too, the tempo’s right up. All over town, funky bars, pubs and grills offer a seductive cocktail of sultry sounds and open-air dancefloors. If you like your evenings more sedate, Falmouth’s your best bet. Here, casual beach bars and tropical restaurants rule the roost. But there’s a special extra, too. Head for the famous Luminous Lagoon and you’re in for a magical evening. As darkness falls, boats take you gliding over the lake, which fills with glow-in-the-dark microbes that cast the waters in a luminous blue hue. But wherever you are, there’s always the pull of Jamaica’s trademark beach bars. Plant yourself at one of these friendly shacks under the palms and you’re in for a truly chilled-out night. Shake off your shoes and join the locals in their celebrations - jamming to reggae with the soft sands in your toes and a glitterball moon sparkling above.

The Jungle, Negril
Dance yourself silly. Catch a big match. Or do battle with a one-armed bandit. This rainforest-styled nightspot and gaming haven offers a pick ‘n’ mix night of fun.

Amnesia, Ochos Rios
If you’re keen to get down with the locals, this no-frills club churns out awesome reggae over a fantastic rooftop dancefloor.

The Brewery, Montego Bay
This turbo-charged bar-restaurant-club hosts rowdy disco nights, karaoke and reggae bands. Start with its 4-6pm Happy Hour and you’re in for one long, memorable night.

Margaritaville, Montego Bay
It’s all happening at this hugely popular waterside club which pumps out sounds whilst its punters revel in its water slides and floating lilos.

Time ‘n’ Place, Falmouth
Wallow in the plum-and-pink sunsets and seductive reggae beats of this bamboo beach bar outside Falmouth. Don’t miss the killer daiquiris.

Date For the Diary

Most of Jamaica’s festivals revolve around reggae, so if you’re up for some serious skank beats, you’ll be in your element. The biggest music event is the Reggae Sunfest in the first week of August, when Montego Bay hosts a string of open-air reggae concerts. At Christmas, colourful ‘jonkanoo’ parades fill most towns with extravagantly costumed dancers and wild merry-making. And to truly sample Jamaica’s love of life, visit just before Easter. That’s when ‘Carnival’ fever erupts all over the island with exuberant parades and reggae-powered partying.

Top 10 Experiences

Dunn’s River Falls
Save some time to visit this eye-popping 600-foot waterfall. Made up of crystal-clear cascades rushing over rounded limestone rocks, it registers high on the fairytale-looks scale. You’ll get to link hands in wobbly, guide-led congas to pick your way up through the rushing waters to the summit, stopping to cool off in refreshing pools en-route. Everyone gets drenched, but there are also viewing points for non-water babes. And don’t forget your digicam – the scenery’s outrageously beautiful.

Kingston
Tin-roofed reggae bars. Grand mansions. Leafy botanical parks. Jamaica’s capital is an intoxicating mix of sights. Its centre is studded with 18th-century colonial buildings and residences including magnificent Devon House, a wedding-cake palace sitting in manicured gardens. There’s also the fascinating National Gallery packed with Jamaican arts and colonial relics. And the Hope Botanical Gardens, a tropical oasis squeezed into the bustling streets. Colourful markets and restaurants line every street and wherever you wander, the infectious beats of reggae and ‘soca’ provide a suitably sunshiney soundtrack. And it doesn’t end there. You’ve got nearby museum-crammed Port Royal, once the base of Jamaica’s swashbuckling pirates. And Spanish Town, too. The island’s capital during Spanish rule, this historic area boasts elegant monuments and an impressive Governor’s Residence where Nelson once hung his admiral’s hat.

Bob Marley Museum
Originally home to Tuff Gong studios where Bob Marley lived and worked, this quirky clapboard museum is a must-visit for all reggae fans. Stuffed with the great Rastaman’s memorabilia and gold discs, it even lets you peek into his one-time bedroom, still adorned with his simple possessions. Followers will also want to pay homage to the master of reggae at his mausoleum in Nine Mile village.

Snorkelling & Scuba Diving
Multi-hued parrotfish. Rainbow-coloured sponges. And jewel-like coral reefs. Jamaica’s undersea world bursts with weird and wonderful sights for snorkellers and divers. Join a snorkelling trip to paddle above reefs awash with barracudas, starfish and rays. Don your wetsuit to inspect stunning reef walls, creepy caves and fascinating wrecks. Or if you’re not up for swimming, take off in a glass-bottomed boat or miniature submarine to spy on the flamboyant aquatic cabaret from deck.

Prospect House Plantation
If you tire of the beach, exploring one of Jamaica’s oldest working plantations is a breath of fresh air. Ride an open-air ‘jitney’ carriage to trundle through sweet-smelling sugar cane, coffee and allspice plantations. Stroll the magical gardens. Step inside the butterfly house. And explore the picture-postcard ‘Great House’ to learn more about the plantation’s history and coo over its opulent antiques. Make sure you check out the ‘loopholes’ too – these hidden windows were built to fend off raids by marauding pirates.

Blue Mountains
Sprawled across Jamaica’s eastern interior, these cloud-forested National Park peaks are often shrouded in a blue heat haze – hence their name. Take a guided hike through their jungles and you’ll enter a wonderland of waterfalls, streams, iridescent hummingbirds and exotic plants. The humid slopes also host Jamaica’s Blue Mountain coffee plantations, many offering guided tours and tasting sessions – the perfect topping for a day out.

Golf
Okay, golf isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Jamaica. But actually, the island’s got enough courses to turn a few other golf hotspots green with envy. But like much on this island, the golf here’s more about fun than fussy formalities. You’ll find plenty of casual courses around Negril and Ochos Rios. And while Montego Bay has more challenging links, aficionados will love Manville’s Manchester Club. With its glorious rolling hills and velvety greens, it’s solid golfing gold.

Rose Hall
This 18th-century plantation mansion is a haunted house extraordinaire. Its rooms were once strutted by Annie Palmer, who, after marrying the owner, indulged in a voodoo-fuelled killing spree. After despatching several husbands and slave lovers, she was finally murdered herself and buried in the grounds to prevent her from haunting the house. It didn’t work – the ‘White Witch of Jamaica’ is believed to still roam its chambers. Now a museum, the richly refurbished house offers a fascinating window on the lifestyles of plantation owners, but watch your back. Annie’s spirit may be lurking in the shadows.

River Rafting
You’ve seen it on the adverts. Now it’s your turn to float Tom Sawyer-style down a tropical Jamaican river. Head for the Martha Rae or White River and sail serenely down the tranquil waters on a two-seater bamboo raft, guided by a skilled captain. You’ll drift past a rolling slideshow of lush riverbanks and tangled forests and maybe even spot a slumbering croc or two on your way.

Dolphin Cove
This is up there with Jamaica’s best experiences. This marine attraction, near Ocho Rios, focuses on a stunning sandy cove where guests can swim with playful bottle nosed dolphins in the neon-blue shallows. Just wade in and stroke a dolphin or take a full-on dorsal-fin ride through the water. Feeling brave? You can even interact with sharks and stingrays. There’s a pirate-themed village and jungle trails to follow as well.

Just So You Know

If you’re keen to snaffle up duty-free bargains, bear in mind that most tax-free shops in Jamaica take American, not Jamaican, dollars. So make sure you’ve got a ready supply. And remember, although crime is far from rife here, it’s advisable not to stray into unlit areas of towns after dark.