Kenya

“Go wild on a safari. Chill out on the beach. Add some chaotic cities. to the mix, and you’ve got the holiday of a liftetime.”

Kenya – the name alone throws up images of thundering buffalo, roaring lions and Masai warriors. Nestled in the heart of east Africa, this is one of the most exciting places in the world. For a start, it’s hot. Really hot. Then there’s the city scene. Big cities, like Nairobi and Mombasa, are fast, frantic and noisy. The air’s filled with the sound of honking car horns, haggling stall holders and booming reggae music, while street food wafts under your nose. Out of the cities, follow the rust-coloured roads to discover landscape that’s unmistakably ‘Africa’. Towering Baobab trees stretch up into the skies. And golden brown plains stretch for as far as the eye can see. But here, it’s the wildlife that’s the star of the show. This is your chance to get up close and personal with the big five in their natural environment. You’ll see lions lazing in the sun. Hippos yawning with their dumper truck jaws. And elephants travelling trunk-to-tail. When you’re all safari-ed out, you’ve got Kenya’s beaches. With crystal-like sands, sparkling seas and more palm trees than you can shake a coconut at, they really are paradise.

Weather

Kenya’s hot. So hot, you really need to tailor your holiday around the seasons. Many people come here when the UK winter’s in full swing and the Kenyan’s summer’s just kicking off. It’s warm around Christmas time, but the heat really cranks up around February and March, when the temperature rockets past the 30ºC mark. The days and early evenings are warm, but around 2pm the sun becomes scorching. Of course, that kind of heat isn’t to everyone’s taste. If that’s the case, fly over in June, July or August time. It’s still hot, but not unbearably so. The midday peak’s still warm enough to get a tan, but you may need to pack a jumper for the evening.

Beaches

When it comes to beaches, Kenya’s in a class of its own. It may sound like a cliché, but they really are snapshots of paradise. All across the country the same scene awaits – white sands, clear seas, and never-ending palm trees. But look beyond the surface and you’ll see each one has its own individual style. Diani’s coast attracts a lively crowd that flocks here for the energetic atmosphere and endless places to eat. On the flipside, Tiwi Beach has a real desert island vibe. There’s hardly a soul in sight – it’s just you and the waves. The only hint at civilisation is the odd beach bar, but that’s pretty much it. Equally striking are the popular shores of Malindi and Watamu, both of which have top-notch marine reserves. And Lamu Island’s pretty popular, too. The name that seems to be on everyone’s lips, though, is Kiwayu. This place has long been the hush-hush getaway for the rich and famous who like a bit of privacy with their suntan. The list of visitors reads like an A-list Oscar party, with the likes of Eddie Murphy and Naomi Campbell renting places on the shore. But if there’s one thing that all these places have in common, it’s watersports. The calm waters are ideal conditions for sailing, windsurfing and, particularly, diving. All manner of fluorescent fish and coral live below the seas, which can be seen as clear as day.

Shopping

It’s fair to say Kenya’s no Milan in the shopping stakes. What it has got, though, are heaps of street sellers, markets and knick knack shops. Whether you’re in the big city or strolling along a dusty roadside, you’ll be tripping over them. Choose from sarongs, blankets and ceramic pots, or plump for ol’ faithful – the wooden carving. These intricate pieces range from small fireplace ornaments to huge masks and towering Makondi figures - just make sure you’ve got enough space in your suitcase. Head for Mombassa’s old town to pick up some of the best crafts. Moi Avenue’s chock-a-block with bright canvases, pots and vases. Not to be outdone, Nairobi’s Racecourse Road has just as many homemade goodies, but with a slightly higher price tag. Of course, if you really want to shop like a local, you need to get down the markets. These aren’t for the faint of heart. They’re fast, frantic and jam-packed with shoppers, so you’ll need to be on your toes. But dive in and you’ll be rewarded with stall upon stall of fresh fruit and vegetables. Nuts and seeds are also popular, along with a truckload of spices, chillies and seasoning. However, don’t hand over your shillings just yet. Almost everything can be bartered down, so don’t be afraid to go in with a price that’s lower than the tag. Kenyan sellers are persistent – so be firm and you’ll come away with a bargain.

Food & Drink

Food’s a big thing in Kenya – and there’s no shortage of places to eat. It all depends on what you fancy. To eat like a local, follow your nose to some of the roadside stalls. This may not appeal at first but the food’s delicious and an empty stomach’s filled for next to nothing. These kinds of stalls are scattered all over the country, but the most popular are based in Nairobi’s Karikor Market. The likes of rump steak, sweet meats and corn cobs are slapped onto an open charcoal fire and grilled to perfection. Of course, there’s a flipside to this style of meal. Kenya’s home to plenty of restaurants, whether you’re in the capital or beachside resorts like Lamu and Malindi. The menus are jam-packed with the two staples of Kenyan cuisine – freshly caught seafood and succulent meat. On the fish front, you can expect the likes of red snapper, rock cod and sea bream to make an appearance. Meat eaters tend to walk on the wild side, with a few delicacies you won’t find in Tesco’s. Alongside pork, chicken and beef are zebra, crocodile and even gazelle. You won’t find them in every eatery, so you’ll need to do a bit of digging. Nairobi’s got some good restaurants where the food’s as wild as it gets. And last but not least, the finer side of Kenyan dining. Surprisingly, the country has its fair share of a la carte restaurants. You’ll find a few in the big places like Nairobi and Mombassa, as well as in the hotels around Diani and Malindi.

• Tamarind, Mombasa – Seafood lovers will think they’ve died and gone to heaven. You’ve officially died and gone to heaven. From baked salmon in champagne to cracked lobster Swahili-style, it’s an A-list menu of ocean fare.
• Carnivore Restaurant, Nairobi – This open-air meat specialist has to be seen to be believed. Every meat imaginable, including crocodile and zebra, is roasted on traditional Masai swords over a huge charcoal pit.
• Peponi’s, Lamu – Sitting under a trellis of bougainvillea, this stylish restaurant overlooks the ocean, where you’ll see fishermen dragging in their nets. Try the Swahili menu for something special and eat your food on the floor around a large brass platter.
• Lord Erroll, Nairobi – Tucked away in the leafy suburbs, outdoor tables are elegantly dressed with white linen and shiny silverware. A la carte dishes have a French twist, while the Sunday lunch menu has a succulent buffet accompanied by a pianist.
• Moorings Restaurant, Malindi – This floating restaurant’s definitely got the wow factor. Sitting in the middle of a river, you can enjoy freshly caught seafood with a fabulous view. Dine in the thatch roofed hut, or hop into a traditional dhow to enjoy your meal.

Nightlife

Although you can catch some pretty good shows inside your hotel, the real Kenya lies outside the front gates. Beyond the dusty roads are plenty of bars and clubs that stay swinging ‘til sun up, especially in the city centre. Mombassa’s got more than enough nightspots to see, and after dark the streets fill up with people darting in and out of the bars that pumping out reggae. But here there’s really only one word on everyone’s lips – Tembo Club. This open-air hotspot’s long been a favourite. Why? It offers the best of both worlds. You can chill inside with a few drinks in a quiet corner, or head outside and shake your stuff to the traditional beats and good old-fashioned house tunes. For a change of scenery, head south to Nyali Beach’s Mamba Crocodile Village. It’s not as loud and proud as Tembo, but it’s got a guest list of razor-toothed punters that would love to crash a party given half the chance. But don’t worry, they’re kept at a safe distance. Of course, you may want to shun conventional nightspots and opt for something more traditional. If so, Nairobi’s the one to watch. On the last weekend of the month, lots of the clubs hold cultural nights, where you can tuck into authentic food and slurp Tusker beer.

• Tembo, Mombasa – This open-air club’s hailed as one of the best in Kenya. Not only does it have an impressive quarry setting, but it’s also home to one of the best sound systems around.
• Simba Saloon, Nairobi – If you’re more familiar with swanky London clubs, this is the place for you. With three bars and a large dance floor, this is where Kenyan trendsetters come to drink, dance and pout.
• Casablanca Club, Mombasa – Far more than just a club, this is an entertainment centre. This is the only place in Kenya where you get two clubs for the price of one. Downstairs, take in exotic shows with traditional performers. Upstairs, you can dance the night away to the latest pop and R&B.
• Pango, Nairobi – Partial to a cocktail or three? This is the place to come. With a cosy, intimate vibe, it’s the ideal spot to kick back with a sugary dawa. As you sip your Kenyan creation, you’ll be entertained by DJs and all night dancing.
• Florida 2000 Discotheque, Nairobi – This has long been Nairobi’s number one club. The finest DJs around, spin on a booming system and you can groove to a different sound every night of the week. Whether it’s soul, techno or traditional Kenyan zilizopendwa, the dancefloor’s always full.

Date for your Diary

November sees the annual Mombassa carnival roll into town in a flurry of sound and colour. The vibrant and eclectic festival celebrates all aspects of African culture, past and present. Fluorescent floats and wild parades glide down the street and they are heard way before they come into view. Mobile sound systems shake with the booming bass of traditional Kenyan music, while live drummers thrash out a beat in perfect time. And local characters dance in the street, dressed in outlandish costumes. The air’s thick with smell of roasting corn cobs and sizzling beef, which wafts over from the roadside grills. The older men, too old to shake their stuff, squat by the roadside with a chicken leg in one hand, Tusker beer in the other. Around five o’clock, all the parades come together on Moi Avenue, where the trucks are packed away, but the party prepares to go on well into the night.

Top 10 Things to See & Do

Masai Mara National Reserve
The Masai Mara is the northern end of the Serengeti National Park and the most famous of all Kenya’s game parks. Here, you’ll find more than 22 prides of lions and 3,000 elephants sharing the savannah landscape with zebras, rhinos, cheetahs and leopards. Over by the Mara River you’ll find crocodiles sliding around the waters, while hippos wallow in the muddier parts. For the trip of a lifetime, float over Kenya’s most famous park in a hot air balloon.

Tsavo National Park
Tsavo is the largest national park in Kenya and one of the biggest in the world. So big, in fact, that it had to be split into two separate sections – Tsavo West and Tsaveo East. Unlike lots of the other parks, it’s pretty easy to get to from the city centre. It’s less than 100 kilometres away from central Mombassa, so you can be there in an hour or so. The Western section’s covered with volcanic cones, rocky terrain and solidified lava flows. There are two waterholes, so you’re guaranteed a sight of the big five animals. The eastern side’s a bit more remote, with watercourses and the Kanderi swamp among the things to look out for. It’s famous for huge numbers of elephants, where herds of up to 50 are regularly seen.

Nairobi National Park
Kenya’s original national park is a real Noah’s Ark of animals, with herds of zebra, antelope and wildebeest roaming the land. But what makes this place unique is the setting. It’s not out in the middle of a dusty plain – it’s right in the centre of Nairobi. Against the surreal backdrop of the city’s towering skyscrapers, there’s highland forest, rocky valleys and gorges with scrubs and long grass. Residents include lions, baboons and over 400 different species of birds. This park is also a major rhino sanctuaries, where you can see a black rhino in its natural habitat.

Hell’s Gate National Park
One of the few parks in Kenya where you can walk unguided, Hell’s Gate’s star attraction is the Njorowa Gorge. An old outlet of Lake Naivasha, it’s long since dried up and these days it’s famous for its imposing eroded cliffs which reach dizzy heights of 150 metres. Guarding the entrance to the gorge is Fischer’s Tower, a needle of red rock, the dramatic centrepiece of many tourists’ snapshots.

Shimba Hills National Hills
This safari park, south of Mombasa, is a popular spot for safari lovers. You’ll see lions and leopards lazing in the sun, along with 500 elephants enjoying the tasty fruit of the borassus palm. But the real treasure’s the rare Sable antelope. This elusive species is only seen in the Shimba Hills and can usually be found resting with large herds of buffalo. Have your cameras at the ready, as there are plenty of giraffes, zebras and ostriches, too. And when it comes to lunch, there are picnic sites with some of the best views around. To the east, you can get a great view of the Indian Ocean, while the west side has the impressive Taita Hills. On a clear day, if you’re really lucky, it’s possible to see the mighty Mount Kilimanjaro.

Fort Jesus
The heartbeat of Mombassa, Fort Jesus is one of Kenya’s star sights. Perched on the coastline by the old town, this 16th-century monument still stands proud today, despite a few battle scars. It was originally a transit point for slaves, where they’d be kept before being shipped out. Inside, there are grim but fascinating reminders of the past, like the torture rooms and prison cells and cannons can still be seen at the fort. And if you’re wondering why all the doors are covered in scary-looking spikes, they were to protect the fort from rioting locals, who would charge the doors with elephants.

Lamu
Glimpse vintage Kenya without the aid of a time machine with a visit to Kenya’s oldest town. It’s untouched by the modern world - donkeys wander slowly through the lanes, children play in the streets, and friendly locals kick back in the warm sunshine. This is the kind of place where you throw out the agenda and just take things as they come. Wander through the markets, stroll through the old town, or spend a few hours relaxing on the sandy beach.

Karen Blixen Museum
Anyone who has read the book Out of Africa will want to see the charming farmhouse where author Karen Blixen lived from 1914 to 1931. Resting at the foot of the Ngong Hills, the house was used for lots of scenes in the film adaptation of the book, which starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford. Spend a few minutes sitting in the peaceful garden gazing out at the Ngong Hills.

Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park
If you’re a fan of our underwater friends, make sure you check out this superb marine park. Perched at the very tip of Wasini Island, the coral reefs are packed with more than 250 types of sea life. Because the waters are shallow and crystal clear, you get a great look beneath the surface. You’ll see all manner of creatures, from butterfly, angel and parrot fish, to giant manta rays. But these are just the tip of the iceberg. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll catch a glimpse of the big boys. We’re talking dolphins, reef sharks, turtles and even humpback whales.

Lunatic Line
Starting in Nairobi and heading for Mombassa, this is one of the slowest, most old fashioned railway journeys you’ll ever take. Otherwise known as the Africa-Uganda Railway, it gained its odd nickname because no one knew where it was going, who would use it, or how much it would cost. These days, those questions are obviously no longer unanswered, but the name seems to have stuck. The trip’s pretty long, so a comfy pillow, good book and friendly company are essential on this journey. Along the way, you’ll take in the dusty plains, along with the snow-white sands of the Kenyan coast.

Just So You Know

Before you set off for Kenya, you’ll need to visit your GP for a yellow fever injection. Malaria tablets are also advisable, which need to be taken two weeks before your due to leave. And a visa’s required for UK citizens, which you’ll need to fill out on your arrival, with a £25 fee.