Goa

“A half-moon scooped into the side of India, this Portuguese-flavoured cocktail is served up over tropical shores.”

Once a hub for young beach bums, Goa shot to fame in the Swinging Sixties. Free-thinking hippies used to flock here to chill out on the beaches, dance around in the moonlight and generally ‘find themselves’. Back then, it was all about flower power, bell bottoms and all things psychedelic. Fast forward a few decades and the Summer of Love generation has been replaced by holidaymakers in search of something a little easier to find – namely fabulous beaches and awe-inspiring sights. And they’re not disappointed. Let’s face it, tropical beaches are what Goa does best. We’re talking gently nodding coconut groves. Palm-thatched bars. And the kind of sand it’d be a crime to walk across with shoes on. It’s a similar story inland – Goa has some of the prettiest scenery India has to offer. Exploring its thick forests is like stepping into a David Attenborough documentary. It’s not for nothing that the locals call this exotic corner the Land of the Gods. But there’s plenty more to Goa than just good looks. Dubbed South Asia’s Latin Quarter, it’s quite different from the rest of India – siestas and Mediterranean-style churches are just some of the legacies of Goa’s spell as a Portuguese colony. Forty years on and this slice of paradise is still reeling us in. And while the guitar-strumming hippies may have been replaced by ipod-flicking hipsters, Goa has lost none of its cool – it still remains the trip of a lifetime.

Weather

Winter’s definitely the best time of year to come to Goa. From September right the way through to March, the weather’s sunny and dry. Temperatures begin to crank up in April and come May, it’s seriously hot. By the end of June, Goa’s often hit by the Indian monsoon – cue spectacular downpours and tropical thunderstorms. Strangely enough, it’s during this time that many people say Goa is at its most beautiful with greenery sprouting up here, there and everywhere.

Beaches

Without a doubt Goa’s main attraction are its tropical beaches – all 105 kilometres of them. Wherever you go sunshine peeps through leafy palms onto fine sands. Some swathes - like Morjim, Agonda and Patnem - are virtually untouched, with fishing boats, sleepy villages and coconut groves providing the backdrop. We’re talking near-deserted numbers where the only set of footprints you’re likely to see in the sand are your own. Others - like Baga, Calangute, Candolim and Cavelossim - are packed with sun-bathers, hair-braiders and fruit-sellers. But even these busier ‘tourist’ stretches are fairly low key, with bamboo-and-thatch beach bars and colonial-style accommodation pulled up against the shore. Now, it would be criminal to talk about Goa’s beaches and not mention Palolem. Lately, it’s acquired something of a star status. Tucked in a picture-perfect horseshoe, its white sands are washed by neon-bright turquoise. It’s the kind of beach you stare at longingly on those posters in the travel agent window. One thing’s for sure, it’s well worth the trek down south to seek out. Oh, and in case you were wondering, there are still some hippy hangouts – check out Arambol, one of the last great ‘peace man’ beaches.

Shopping

Okay, so designer boutiques and glitzy shopping malls aren’t exactly ten a penny in these parts. But that’s really not what Goa’s about. Instead, it treats you to eye-popping markets, the likes of which you can imagine Michael Palin wandering around with a camera crew in tow. Take Mapusa’s weekly offering. Every Friday, a circus of stalls rolls into town. Like big top ringmasters, hollering merchants entice the crowds. And the main act? Trestle tables piled high with wood carvings and little papier-mâché boxes. Crates overflowing with pineapples and melons. And knick-knacks made from shells and bamboo laid out on the ground. The star turn, however, has to be the rainbow-coloured spice stalls. Saffron, turmeric and chilli are sculpted into little powder pyramids. And the giddy mix of smells leaves you in no question as to where you are in the world. It’s a similar set up at Panaji’s market. From fresh fish to beachwear – and everything in between - it’s a great carnival of a marketplace that has to be seen to be believed. But Anjuna’s Wednesday flea market is perhaps the most dazzling of them all. There are performing monkeys. Fortune-telling bulls. Silks. Saris. Sarongs. Not to mention wide-eyed puppets, Kashmiri rugs and plenty of bargain-hunters on the search for some take-homes. Oh and on the subject of bargains, here’s a hot tip. Some big name Western brands have got shops in Panaji. And because companies like Levi’s and Lacoste produce lots of their goods in India, you’ll be able to pick up designer togs for a fraction of the price you’d pay at home.

Food & Drink

If you’re among the 2.5million Brits popping down to their local curry house each week, you’ll love Goa. After all, where better to have an Indian than in, well, India? Vindaloo. Tandoori. Biryani. You’ll find all your favourites here, not to mention coconut-centric Goan curries. Check out the ‘dhabas’ or ‘bhojanalyas’, basic little eateries that are great value for money where the cooking’s done right in front of you. Often ‘dhals’, mushy curry-spiced lentils, are served up for free – you just pay for the side of rice or chapattis. If you want to give your tastebuds a real workout though, order a ‘thali’. India’s answer to Spanish tapas, it’s a collection of curried dishes, sauces and a mountain of rice. If curry and spice isn’t your thing though, don’t worry - the big hotels cater really well for Western palettes. But Goa’s got some specialities of its own, quite distinct from the rest of India, worth trying. For centuries it was a Portuguese colony and you can still feel the influence. In fact, with dishes like ‘recheiado’, ‘caldeirada’ and ‘chouricos’, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re on the Algarve. Goa’s also party central for seafood. Expect plenty of fresh fish, crab, shrimp and lobster. On the dessert front, Goa serves up ‘bebinca’ - sweetmeat coconut pancakes to tempt even the size zeros. As to alcohol, it’s really cheap. Kingfisher beer is the locals’ brew of choice while the 30% proof ‘feni’ – made from double distilled coconut or palm sap – is a hangover waiting to happen. And on the subject of drinks, here’s a hot tip - literally. If your mouth’s on fire after all that curry, don’t bother asking for water - curd or yoghurt do the job far better.

• Casa Portuguesa, Baga – Housed in a cutesy old bungalow, this restaurant is a great place to try Goa’s Portuguese-infused cuisine.
• Fiesta Restaurant, Baga – For a taste of the Med, give this restaurant a whirl. Tuck into favourites like moussaka, paella and pasta. And the ten-inch margherita pizza comes highly recommended.
• Souza Lobo, Calangute – Something of a culinary institution, this place first opened its doors back in 1932. Goan specialities and top-notch seafood take centre-stage and the vindaloo here’s a real talking point.
• Horse Shoe Restaurant, Panaji – With mouth-watering fish curry and chicken in piquant sauce, this restaurant offers up some seriously tasty Goan food. Don’t miss the cashew nut cake – it’s out of this world.
• Palm & Sands, Candolim – The seafood’s definitely worth shouting about here. The crab and lobster dishes take some beating.

Nightlife

If you’re a bit of a party animal, then Goa’s your zoo. Ever since the hippies made this place their Mecca back in the 60’s, it’s been India’s premier nightspot – it even gives the likes of Delhi and Mombai a run for their money. It’s perhaps best known for its famous - or infamous depending on your opinion - Full Moon Parties. They tend to be held on Anjuna and Vagator beaches, which have now become the unofficial Full Moon capitals. Still as popular as ever, people travel from all over the globe to experience these fluorescent gatherings. Usually starting around midnight, they’re the place to be if you want to dance until dawn. Wide-eyed Brits stomp their feet to the pounding trance music. First time backpackers stand in awe as the commotion unfolds. And locals juggle fire, lighting up the night sky. It’s a real melting pot of nationalities, joined together for one wild night of partying. Be warned though – these events are strictly for hardcore party-goers. But there’s a flipside to Goa’s night-time scene. For Western-style clubs and bars, make a beeline for Calangute and neighbouring Baga. Here, you’ll find a number of top waterholes – including the now legendary Tito’s Bar - as well as lots of big hotels that have their own discos. Of course, you might just want to pad down to one of the beachside shacks and chill out with a cocktail to the soundtrack of the sea.

• Tito’s Bar, Baga - Probably the best-know of Goa’s late night spots, this place is popular with tourists and the locals. The mix of hip hop, house and a few retro classics ensure the dancefloor’s packed from sundown to sunup.
• Club Cabana, Arpora - Set in a converted mansion, this is where the beautiful people come to hang out. Whether you’re lounging by the indoor pool or sipping champagne in your private booth, it’s VIP treatment all the way. And with unlimited drinks included in the entrance fee, you’ll soon see why this place is the talk of the town.
• Club Antos, Calangute - Bang on the sands, this bar’s ideal for a sundowner. Kicking off with a few down-tempo tunes before dark, the evening then shifts up a gear with a bit of tough house and bassy hip hop. Here, the atmosphere’s so electric it could be running off Goa’s national grid.
• Club Extreme, Panaji - Pumping out a selection of glittery disco bangers, this is the place to throw some serious shapes. But forget white suits and the Bee Gees – this is disco music 21st century-style. And it’s open every day of the week, so there’s no excuse for missing the party.
• Alvoc, Colva - If it’s theme nights you’re after, this place covers all musical bases. There’s the dirty rock of The Stones. The poetic jazz of Gil Scott Heron. And the finest floor fillers of Studio 54. Night after night, you’re treated to a sneaky peek of God’s jukebox.

Date For Your Diary

On the 3rd of December all eyes fall on Old Goa. Catholic pilgrims from around the globe descend on the city for the feast day of St Francis Xavier. Now, if you’re not up to speed on your saints, allow us to fill you in. Francis Xavier was a Jesuit priest sent to Goa by the Portuguese king. A man on a mission, he converted nearly 30,000 people. Some would say that would’ve been enough to secure him the title ‘Goa’s patron saint’. But the story doesn’t end there. Legend has it that when his remains were enshrined in Old Goa in 1553 – a full year after his death - his body showed absolutely no signs of decay.

Top 10 Things to See and Do

Old Goa
Known as the ‘Golden City’, this was the Portuguese capital of Goa up until the 18th century. Today it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site - and a must on your sightseeing tick sheet. Packed with convents and cathedrals, this mile-long complex is nothing short of sensational. Without a doubt, the star turn here is the Basilica de Bom Jesus. Built by the Jesuits backs in 1594, it’s revered by Catholics across the globe. Reason being, it’s home to the remains of Goa’s death-defying saint, Francis Xavier. Miracles aside, the building itself is knockout, with an impressive three-tiered Baroque façade. Putting in another leading performance is Se Cathedral. It’s a Renaissance showstopper that wouldn’t look out of place in Florence. The supporting cast of churches shouldn’t be overlooked, either.

Panaji
Sitting at the mouth of the Mandovi river, Panaji – or Panjim as it’s sometimes called - is the capital of Goa. Not that you’d know it though – it’s got the look and feel of a sleepy Mediterranean town rather than a bustling metropolis. We’re talking leafy avenues. Pastel-washed buildings. And a jumble of tile-roofed houses. This is one corner of Goa where there’s no denying the Portuguese effect. In terms of sights, head to the main square - Largo da Igreja. It’s home to Panaji’s most famous landmark, the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. A vision in white, it’s a Baroque flurry framed by twin towers and a double flight of stairs.

Mandovi River Cruises
What better way to spend an evening than a sunset cruise down Mandovi river? Boats set sail from Mandovi Bridge most nights between 6 and 7pm and usually include onboard Goan dancing, music and folk songs. Some cruise companies offer trips through the backwaters and mangroves, too.

Dudhsagar Waterfalls
Board a train for the scenic journey across Goa to the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary. A real beauty spot, it covers an area of more than 90 square miles. Residents include leopards, deer and bison. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Dudhsagar Waterfalls. Hidden in tropical jungle, the falls stand at 600 metres tall – making them the second highest in India. Don’t forget your cossie to take a dip in the pools that form at the bottom.

Ponda
This part of Goa is known for its eye-popping collection of Hindu temples, many of which are tucked away in thick, thick forests. Built back in the 17th and 18th centuries, they’re a bizarre mix of Hindu, Muslim and Baroque styles – so don’t be surprised to see Islamic domes instead of traditional Hindu spires and prayer halls decked out with European chandeliers. Must-sees include the Shantadurga Temple in Quela, with its pagoda-like roof, and the Shri Mangesh Temple at Priol, Goa’s wealthiest shrine.

Tamdbi Surla Mahadeva Temple
This shrine is quite unlike any of the temples you’ll find in Ponda. Hidden away in a remote forest, it’s Goa’s oldest Hindu temple with a 13th-century birthday or thereabouts. Like Stonehenge, the origins of the temple are a bit of a mystery. It’s built from striking black basalt, which is nothing unusual in itself – beside the fact it’s nowhere to be found in Goa. Spooky…

Braganza House
Rich. Lavish. And flamboyant to the extreme. Braganza House is all these things. After all, it is Goa’s grandest colonial mansion. Think rosewood four-poster beds. Exquisite Chinese porcelain. And fancy gilded mirrors. All chandeliers a-shimmering, the ballroom’s worth a look and so is the enormous library that’s stacked with more than 5000 leather-bound books. As grand designs go, this place is hard to beat.

Birdwatching
Twitchers will be in their element in Goa. The glossy forests and meandering waterways are home to all sorts of birds with a roll call that includes eagles, kites, buzzards, kestrels and ospreys. Chorao Island is probably your best bet. Down on the southwest tip you’ll find the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary – Goa’s smallest wildlife reserve. And the wetlands at Carambolim and Shiroda are good, too. Morjim beach, meanwhile, is great for seabirds. Grab your binoculars and get spotting.

The Golden Triangle
Internal flights from Goa place India’s big three – Delhi, Jaipur and Agra – within your reach. In Delhi tick off sights like the 12th-century Qutak Minar tower and the Ghandi memorial. Jaipur, meanwhile, offers up blush-coloured buildings, including the honeycomb-like Palace of Winds. But it’s in Agra that you’ll come face to face with India’s most famous tourist attraction, the Taj Mahal. All floaty domes and minarets, it’s every inch a ‘love poem in marble’.

Kerela
Another internal flight, this time south, brings you to India’s unspoilt southern tip, Kerela. Here you can take in the beach beauty that is Kovalam, the sightseeing-fests that are Cohin and Ernakulam, not to mention the sleepy riverside villages around Allepey. Just gorgeous.