The Gambia

“Big smiles. Big skies. Big beaches. For such a small country, Gambia sure knows how to think big.”

Gambia – one blink and you could miss it. Trace your finger south from the Canaries and you’ll come to this tiny sliver of land. Carved into Africa’s west coast, this bite-sized chunk splits Senegal down the middle. Gambia’s actually the smallest country on the African continent, which is odd when you consider its lifeblood, the Gambia River, can be seen from space. But what this place lacks in size, it more than makes up for in personality - it’s African through and through. There are women balancing pots on their heads. Palm-thatched mud huts. And canopies of baobab trees that Tarzan would quite happily call home. Local colour, meanwhile, comes courtesy of the capital, Banjul. Corrugated iron shacks rub shoulders with crumbling colonial buildings. Markets erupt with bright batiks and exotic fruit. And old memorials built to honour King George VI serve as a reminder of Gambia’s stint under the Union Jack. Heritage isn’t the only thing Brits share with Gambians. This place runs on UK time, so there’s the added bonus of a jetlag-free journey. What’s more, Gambia’s only five or so hours away, making it manageable long haul. Of course, most people come here for the beaches. After all, they’re Gambia’s trump card. We’re talking crowd-free sands. Long strips of ivory that seems to go on and on. All gazing out across the deep blue of the Atlantic. This being Africa though, a walk on the wild side comes as standard. Whether it’s a trip down the mangrove-strewn Gambia River past wallowing hippos or sneaking past a sleeping lion at the Abuko Nature Reserve, David Attenborough moments come thick and fast in these parts. Oh, and let’s not forget about the 300 or so exotic birds that call this place home. No wonder it’s such a hit with twitchers. Just like the Tardis, Gambia may be small, but open up the door and you’ll find a whole lot more waiting to be discovered.

Weather

Gambia’s hot - very hot. Temperatures peak around November time, when the thermometer hits 28 to 32 ºC. Like things a bit cooler? Then head here between February and May temperatures drops to a fresher 21 to 27 ºC. July through to October’s the rainy season. While it’s still warm, but can get chilly in the evenings.

Beaches

Gambia’s a beach lover’s dream. Every one of its shores comes fully dressed in pearly white sands and sapphire seas, accessorised perfectly with gently nodding palm trees. But that’s not to say they’re all carbon copies of each other. Far from it. Take Bijilo for instance. This unspoilt stretch of coast has a real Robinson Crusoe vibe about it. Until a beach seller offers you a slice of fresh fruit, that is. Over in Bakau and Fajara, things are a bit livelier. Here, it’s all large scale ‘locals vs visitors’ volleyball games, with plenty of sunbathing spectators. The high priests of Gambian coastline are undoubtedly Kotu, Kololi and Cape Point. These sun-soaked sweeps are big, bold and bustling with action. And the warm, clear waters make them a magnet for watersports enthusiasts, who zig-zag across the waters on windsurfers and mini sailing boats.

Shopping

Gambia’s definitely no Paris in the shopping stakes. But that’s no bad thing. This place is all about roots and culture rather than boots and couture. So prepare for a mixture of ethnic shops and local colour. Seasoned shoppers can dive in at the deep end with a trip to Banjul’s fast and frantic Albert Market. As you walk in, a mass of frantic traders bellow out their deals in a flurry of arm waving. The stalls are filled with an avalanche of handicrafts, like sand paintings, batik prints, and of course, African wooden carvings. Clothes-wise, Serrakunda’s market’s where it’s at. This place is jam-packed with colourful sarongs, leather shoes and brightly-coloured beach wear. And if you can’t resist the lure of fresh fruit and veg, look no further than Bakau’s food market. Of course, if you’re going to make any form of purchase, you need to learn how to haggle. Everything can be bartered for and tradesmen are always keen to strike a deal. If you’re sharp and stand your ground, you can usually reduce a sale by around fifty percent.

Nightlife

Nightlife tends to revolve around the hotels, with African folklore shows and dancing a regular fixture. But that’s by no means the extent of after dark fun. The liveliest place is around ‘The Strip’ in Kololi. With its mixture of restaurants, bars and small clubs, you can pretty much begin and end your evening right here. The locals tend to hang around the pool halls, which you’ll hear before you see. Follow the booming sound of rumbling reggae music and you’re sure to strike gold. On the flipside, there are more than enough places where Western influence rules. These are a bubbly mixture of fruity cocktails, bouncing Euro pop and booty shaking R&B. And if you’re partial to a bit of hip hop, you may be surprised to know that Gambia’s become a bit of a hot spot for MCs. It’s got a strong but up-and-coming scene, so check out some of the top clubs in Banjul and Serrekunda. Of course, not everyone wants loud music and all night dancing. You’ll find plenty of chilled-out beach bars around the likes of Kotu and Fajara, so pull up a chair, order a Julbrew beer, and watch the sun set over a glistening shore.

• Bounce, Kololi – This popular sports bar’s popular with locals and tourists, who come to shoot some serious pool. If you want to blend in, sip a shot, chalk your cue, then show everyone that Paul Newman’s got nothing on you.
• Aquarius Bar & Disco, Senegambia –This is one of Gambia’s trendiest hotspots. Resident DJs pump out the tunes, while the young and hip dance well into the early hours.
• Chapman’s & Calypso, Bakau – For an evening of relaxation, you can’t beat a fabulous seafront setting. The perfect accompaniment to the beautiful scenery is live music and a cold glass of Julbrew, the local beer.
• The African Queen Bar, Senegambia – If cocktails are your thing, check out this buzzing bar. Pick something from the menu, or ask for one of the famous fruity liqueurs.
• McMahons Irish Bar, Senegambia – Irish bars are always cosy and friendly – and this is no exception. It’s one of the only places in the country that serves draught Guinness, which is hugely popular with local folk.

Food & Drink

Believe it or not, but Gambia’s fast becoming a hotspot for top notch cuisine. In recent years, the country’s been flooded with first class restaurants and a la carte dishes. They even got their own Jamie Oliver in the form of Driss Bensouda. Channel hoppers may have caught his cookery show on Sky TV, which is broadcast from his restaurant, The Butcher’s Shop. Located in the fashionable area of Fajara, it revolves around hearty ingredients from their organic greengrocer, in-house butchery and bakery. Simple dishes like chicken ‘yassa’ and lemon spiced stew are remixed, sprinkled with a bit of a culinary magic, then given a contemporary twist. Just round the corner is the Ngala Lodge, which is head of the class when it comes to food with a view. Here, you can sit in the sun with a chilled melon soup and soak up the jaw-dropping view of the Atlantic. And not to be outdone, the rooftop Yok restaurant serves up some tasty Lebanese dishes with a to-die-for view of the city. But if you really want all-out extravagance, there’s only one place to – The Avocado Restaurant. Based in Kololi’s Coconut Residence Hotel, it’s widely considered the country’s best restaurant – and with good reason. Whether you’re taking an early champagne breakfast or tucking into pan fried ladyfish, it’s an experience that’s out of this world. Of course, you may prefer to shun the high life and live like a local. If that’s the case, you need get down with some street food, which can be found wherever you go. For a few Delasis you can sample starchy staples like millet, rice and yams, or thick vegetable stews cooked on an open fire. And don’t forget to try something from the sizzling grill, where chicken, beef and pork are mixed with onions and spices for an extra kick.

• Avocado Restaurant, Serrekunda – This poolside restaurant offers five star treatment with a menu to match.
• Harmattan, Kotu – With a menu of traditional treats and pan-African musicians playing for your pleasure, this is a two-for-one of fine food and fabulous entertainment.
• Henry’s Bistro, Kololi – Henry’s one of the most established chefs in the country and all of his expertise has been poured into Gambia’s newest bistro. He personally sources all the local produce and writes up a daily menu of lip-smacking specials. Definitely one to watch.
• Gaya Art Café, Senegambia – Often referred to as an Aladdin’s Cave, this place offers a little bit of everything. From Spanish tapas to fiery Asian dishes, you can go around the world without ever leaving your seat. And it may sound like an odd setting, but this art and craft shops offers a real touch of class.
• Scala, Kololi – This Danish-run eatery has built a solid reputation since opening nearly twenty years ago. Their a la carte menu’s famous for its pan-fried steaks, but there’s plenty more on offer. And don’t forget to grab a drink at the mock-Tudor Gaslight bar.

Date for your Diary

The Roots International Festival is a seven day celebration of freedom, which takes place in June. And this colourful bonanza’s got everything you’d expect from an African carnival. Thunderous drums beating out a spot-on rhythm. Traditional dancers shaking every limb. And colours that seem to leap out from the wild and wonderful costumes. Less frantic, but just as entertaining, are the plays and theatre shows that accompany the festivities.

Sightseeing

Banjul
From the sleepy, small town vibe to the crumbling colonial buildings Gambia’s capital city is jam-packed with character and colour. Pop into town and check out Albert Market, which is fast, frantic and crammed with stalls selling everything from spices to handmade clothes. Just around the corner is McCarthy Square, home of the War Memorial Fountain, and not far from here is the African Heritage Centre and National Museum.

Albert Market
Set in the heart of Banjul, Albert Market’s loud, lively and bursting with colour. Step inside and you’re immediately hit with a buzzing atmosphere of booming reggae and wild-eyed traders battling for your custom. It’s fast, frantic and definitely not for the faint hearted. But take a deep breath and make your way round as it’s well worth the effort. The stalls overflow with all kinds of knick knacks, from traditional clothing and jewellery to medicines and wooden carvings. Haggling comes as standard, so try to barter for a better price. And don’t forget to try some of the food. The smell of roasting meat is impossible to avoid, so give in to your cravings and grab a bite. Play it safe with chicken and smoked fish, or walk on the wild side with grilled crocodile. This place is more than just a market – it’s a snapshot of Gambian life.

Gambia’s National Museum
If you want to explore a bit of Gambia’s history, head over to Banjul’s National Museum. From faded maps and crinkly photos to ethnographic displays and archaeological finds, this place is a treasure trove of vintage artefacts that delve into the country’s past. Trace back the African roots, then delve into its ties with European colonialism.

Fort Bullen
Originally built in 1826, the fading remains of Fort Bullen can still be seen today. It was originally built to protect the trading route of the Gambian River and repel any attacks on Bathurst - or Banjul as it’s now known. The large square fort has low round towers in each corner and you can walk along the battlements that overlook the river mouth. You’ll also see toppled cannons and crumbling turret remains. Twelve years ago it was in danger of collapsing, but was renovated as part of the Roots Homecoming Festival.

The Gambia River
When it comes to sightseeing, the Gambia River’s definitely a must-see. Starting at Fouta Djallon plateau in North Guinea, it stretches westward to the Atlantic Ocean at the city of Banjul. It’s over 700 miles long, and believe it or not, it can be seen from way up in space. It’s a real mishmash of scenery, with crystal clear waters slowly running into muggy marshland. If you want to see the best bits, hop onboard a boat and take one of the river cruises. As you sail the snaking mangrove swamps you’ll see some of the finest wildlife the country has to offer. Cue a kaleidoscope of exotic birds, hippos wallowing in the cool, sludgy mud and the odd monkey chattering in the trees above.

The Abuko Nature Reserve
The much-celebrated Abuko Nature Reserve is Gambia’s oldest wildlife park and brings you face to face with some of the finest wildlife around. It’s a huge gallery forest that surrounds a chain of three lagoons. It’s inhabited by a roll call of animals that could make Noah green with envy. We’re talking monkeys, hyenas and crocodiles. And let’s not forget that dazzling array of exotic birds. Over 300 species have been recorded here, so it’s a twitcher’s paradise. For the best views, head over to one of the hides with a pair of binoculars and keep your eyes peeled for eagles owls, fish eagles and yellow-breasted apalis birds.

Makasutu Cultural Forest
Mystery and myth surround this magical forest. Many years ago, legend has it that a fierce tribal war was fought here. The king was killed and his head, crown and throne were all buried deep in the woods. These days, it’s gained a solid reputation as the Best New Eco Lodge in the World, according to the Sunday Times. Six villages surround the forest, their luxury lodges floating on pontoons or rising up on stilts along the Mandina Bolong River. By day, you can explore with a safari trip and boat ride, then a guided tour of the forest. Or check out one of the local villages and see just how they carve those intricate wooden ornaments.

Banjul Breweries
If you’ve ever wondered how beer makes it way onto the supermarket shelves, this fascinating tour will fill in the gaps. Here, you can grab a sneaky peek into the production of Gambia’s number one beer, Julbrew. From the brewing and bottling process to packing and distribution, you’ll see it all here. You can even sample the finished product for yourself. But there’s more than just alcoholic drinks to see. Recently, special efforts have being made to produce soft drinks from locally-grown fruits. So you’ll see mangoes and guavas pulped, then made into fresh juice.

Katchikali Crocodile Pool
Crocodiles are known for being permanently hungry and only too keen to snack on anything that comes in their path. But not Charlie. This place is home to the world’s friendliest crocodile, who’s more than happy to pose for photos. He’s kept fed at all times, so it’s safe to get up close to this celebrity snapper. There’s also a large emerald green pond covered with water lilies where 50 other crocs live. However, these aren’t so friendly, so make sure you take photos from a distance.

Jinack Island
This remote strip of land requires a bit of travelling, but it’s definitely worth the effort. After a ferry journey and a short taxi ride, you’re rewarded with 11 kilometres of unspoilt beaches. But these aren’t the usual run of the mill sand traps. They’re inhabited by some truly exotic residents. As you relax on the shore, keep your eyes peeled for bottle-nosed dolphins flipping in the distance, along with green turtles. This place forms part of the National Park of Niumu, so you’ll get to see more than just sun, sea and sand. Do a bit of exploring and you’ll discover fresh water marshland, tidal mud flats, and mile upon mile of mangrove-strewn swamps.

Just so you know

Before you set off for Gambia, you’ll need to visit your GP for some jabs. Yellow fever, hepatitis A and diphtheria are all essential, while meningococcal meningitis is sometimes recommended. Malaria is present throughout the country, so anti-malarial tablets are advised.